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Renseignements pour corallus caninus
http://reptilic.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=29379
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Auteur:  Aînara [ Mar Juin 05, 2007 5:12 pm ]
Sujet du message: 

heu...il est 5h du matin ou 5h de l'après midi là chez vous ?
je suis perdue avec ce décalage.

Auteur:  Pablo [ Mar Juin 05, 2007 5:20 pm ]
Sujet du message: 

Il est 7h15 de l'après-midi.. :roll:

Auteur:  Wilson [ Ven Juin 08, 2007 3:13 pm ]
Sujet du message: 

Je veux pas etre bete, mais si tu fait quelque recherche simple dans reptilic et google tu va trouvé beaucoup de reponse a tes question, ensuite pour clarifier certaine information tu pose tes questions ici... Se que tu demande en faite est de faire un care sheet pour toi.

Wilson

Emerald Tree Boa Care Sheet

Without delving into any elaborate or detailed explanations, the purpose of this document is to provide a quick basic reference tool. Intended for use as a glossary style resource, the subjects are alphabetized. They therefore do not appear in any other logical order or grouping.

Feeding Frequency : Adult
For the average adult feeding at the elsewhere defined "optimum prey size"; 1 prey item per 21-28 day cycle.
Require 1 full defecation (feces and urates) for every 2 feedings prior to proceeding with any subsequent feeding.

Feeding Frequency : Neonate
For the average baby feeding at the elsewhere defined "optimum prey size"; 1 prey item per 12-24 day cycle.
Require 1 full defecation (feces and urates) between every feeding prior to continuing with any subsequent feeding.

Feeding Frequency : Sub-Adult
For the average baby feeding at the elsewhere defined "optimum prey size"; 1 prey item per 14-21 day cycle.
Require 1 full defecation (feces and urates) for every 2 feedings prior to proceeding with any subsequent feeding.

Humidity : Maintenance Cycle
For day to day use with all ETBs during regular non-breeding periods. Humidity levels should be maintained between a DayTime High of 65-80% and a NightTime Low of 45-60%. These Day/Night fluctuations in the humidity level are essential in order to maintain your Emerald in a proper healthy state. Many keepers prefer to employ NTL levels at the higher end of the spectrum for animals during known shed cycles.

Humidity : Mating Cycle
For or use with mature ETBs during any period designed to help induce mating. Humidity levels should be maintained between a DayTime High of 65-90% and a NightTime Low of 50-65%. These Day/Night fluctuations in the humidity level should be coupled with 3 daytime and 1 nighttime misting periods. The DTH & NTH readings should be brief in duration and are essentially linked to misting times and designed to enhance the effects of thermal cycling in an effort to trigger mating behaviour in sexually mature animals. During this period special care must be taken to insure that the Night Time Low Humidity period is of an adequate duration as to allow habitats to dry out completely. This is vitally important in order to minimize any possibility of fungal and bacterial contamination to substrate materials, branches and/or the animal itself.

Maintenance Prey Size :
For use with recovering or problematic specimens. A prey item whose girth does not exceed half of that of the specimen being fed. After consumption, it should create NO visible enlargement in your Emerald.

Optimum Prey Size :
For use with all healthy, non-problematic specimens. A prey item whose girth does not exceed that of the specimen being fed. After consumption, it should create only a slightly noticable enlargement in your Emerald.

Photo Cycle (day/night) :
For year round use: 12/12 = 12 hours of daylight, followed by 12 hours of darkness.

Shedding Problems :
For any animal having experienced a problematic shed. Soak a terrycloth towel and put it inside a cotton muslin snake bag, which has also been soaked with warm water. Place the snake in the bag with the wet towel, and put the whole thing into a plastic tub. Mist the interior of the tub with warm water, place the cover on the tub and put it in a warm place (85°F). Loosening a dried on shed may take as long as a day or two and may still require that you manually peel the skin off. Problem sheds treated in this manner can generally be removed easily provided that the animal has be bagged long enough to fully saturate the un-shed, dried on skin. Periodically check to assure the animal is remaining both damp and warm.
Caution : Under NO circumstances should the bag be placed in water. ANY depth, even as little as a half an inch, could result in accidental drowning.

Temperature : Maintenance Cycle : Beginning the 6th day after a feeding, and lasting until the next feeding.
For year round use with all non-breeders, neonate through adult, temperatures should be kept between a Day Time High of 84°F to a Night Time Low of 72°F. Fluctuations within that range, although a natural event, are desireable but unnecessary. Keepers may prefer to employ the optimum fixed Maintenance temperature of 82°F inbetween breeding cycles.

Temperature : Feeding Cycle
For healthy emeralds, neonate through adult, normal daily flucuations or a fixed 82°F can be maintained before, during and after feeding. Healthy animals need NOT be cared for any differently after feeding, however, it is essential to insure that temperatures do not spike upwards of 90°F for several days after a feed.

Temperature : Mating Cycle : A varient period of temperature fluctuation used to induce breeding activity.
For use with all sexually mature, potential breeders. Temperature margins should be gradually expanded over a 4 week period until they reach a Day Time High of 86°F (Once again the extremes of the range should be of very short duration) and a Night Time Low of 70°F. These rangess should be maintained for a 12 week period before being returned again to the Maintenance cycle. When coupled with increased misting, this temperature varient is known to be a helpful factor in triggering the breeding response.

LIEN : http://www.emeraldtreeboa.org/daemons/etbcare.htm

Pour la traduction ! http://www.google.fr/language_tools?hl=fr

Auteur:  Sword [ Sam Juin 09, 2007 11:53 am ]
Sujet du message:  Re: Renseignements pour corallus caninus

Aînara a écrit:
Toulouse, mais en clair c'est une ville...pourrie :?


La guèpe ? lol Toulouse est pas une ville pourri ! j'y habite aussi !

Agar, Pablo m'a dit que la photo de la dentition d'un ETB t'apartenait, pourrait tu la reposté, pour la montré a notre amie Aînara.
La dernière fois que je suis allé dans l'album reptilic dans ton profil il n'y vait plus cette photo en question ...

A propos de cette photo, pourquoi il a du sang ?

Auteur:  Aînara [ Ven Sep 07, 2007 1:32 am ]
Sujet du message: 

Wilson a écrit:
Je veux pas etre bete, mais si tu fait quelque recherche simple dans reptilic et google tu va trouvé beaucoup de reponse a tes question, ensuite pour clarifier certaine information tu pose tes questions ici... Se que tu demande en faite est de faire un care sheet pour toi.

Wilson

Emerald Tree Boa Care Sheet

Without delving into any elaborate or detailed explanations, the purpose of this document is to provide a quick basic reference tool. Intended for use as a glossary style resource, the subjects are alphabetized. They therefore do not appear in any other logical order or grouping.

Feeding Frequency : Adult
For the average adult feeding at the elsewhere defined "optimum prey size"; 1 prey item per 21-28 day cycle.
Require 1 full defecation (feces and urates) for every 2 feedings prior to proceeding with any subsequent feeding.

Feeding Frequency : Neonate
For the average baby feeding at the elsewhere defined "optimum prey size"; 1 prey item per 12-24 day cycle.
Require 1 full defecation (feces and urates) between every feeding prior to continuing with any subsequent feeding.

Feeding Frequency : Sub-Adult
For the average baby feeding at the elsewhere defined "optimum prey size"; 1 prey item per 14-21 day cycle.
Require 1 full defecation (feces and urates) for every 2 feedings prior to proceeding with any subsequent feeding.

Humidity : Maintenance Cycle
For day to day use with all ETBs during regular non-breeding periods. Humidity levels should be maintained between a DayTime High of 65-80% and a NightTime Low of 45-60%. These Day/Night fluctuations in the humidity level are essential in order to maintain your Emerald in a proper healthy state. Many keepers prefer to employ NTL levels at the higher end of the spectrum for animals during known shed cycles.

Humidity : Mating Cycle
For or use with mature ETBs during any period designed to help induce mating. Humidity levels should be maintained between a DayTime High of 65-90% and a NightTime Low of 50-65%. These Day/Night fluctuations in the humidity level should be coupled with 3 daytime and 1 nighttime misting periods. The DTH & NTH readings should be brief in duration and are essentially linked to misting times and designed to enhance the effects of thermal cycling in an effort to trigger mating behaviour in sexually mature animals. During this period special care must be taken to insure that the Night Time Low Humidity period is of an adequate duration as to allow habitats to dry out completely. This is vitally important in order to minimize any possibility of fungal and bacterial contamination to substrate materials, branches and/or the animal itself.

Maintenance Prey Size :
For use with recovering or problematic specimens. A prey item whose girth does not exceed half of that of the specimen being fed. After consumption, it should create NO visible enlargement in your Emerald.

Optimum Prey Size :
For use with all healthy, non-problematic specimens. A prey item whose girth does not exceed that of the specimen being fed. After consumption, it should create only a slightly noticable enlargement in your Emerald.

Photo Cycle (day/night) :
For year round use: 12/12 = 12 hours of daylight, followed by 12 hours of darkness.

Shedding Problems :
For any animal having experienced a problematic shed. Soak a terrycloth towel and put it inside a cotton muslin snake bag, which has also been soaked with warm water. Place the snake in the bag with the wet towel, and put the whole thing into a plastic tub. Mist the interior of the tub with warm water, place the cover on the tub and put it in a warm place (85°F). Loosening a dried on shed may take as long as a day or two and may still require that you manually peel the skin off. Problem sheds treated in this manner can generally be removed easily provided that the animal has be bagged long enough to fully saturate the un-shed, dried on skin. Periodically check to assure the animal is remaining both damp and warm.
Caution : Under NO circumstances should the bag be placed in water. ANY depth, even as little as a half an inch, could result in accidental drowning.

Temperature : Maintenance Cycle : Beginning the 6th day after a feeding, and lasting until the next feeding.
For year round use with all non-breeders, neonate through adult, temperatures should be kept between a Day Time High of 84°F to a Night Time Low of 72°F. Fluctuations within that range, although a natural event, are desireable but unnecessary. Keepers may prefer to employ the optimum fixed Maintenance temperature of 82°F inbetween breeding cycles.

Temperature : Feeding Cycle
For healthy emeralds, neonate through adult, normal daily flucuations or a fixed 82°F can be maintained before, during and after feeding. Healthy animals need NOT be cared for any differently after feeding, however, it is essential to insure that temperatures do not spike upwards of 90°F for several days after a feed.

Temperature : Mating Cycle : A varient period of temperature fluctuation used to induce breeding activity.
For use with all sexually mature, potential breeders. Temperature margins should be gradually expanded over a 4 week period until they reach a Day Time High of 86°F (Once again the extremes of the range should be of very short duration) and a Night Time Low of 70°F. These rangess should be maintained for a 12 week period before being returned again to the Maintenance cycle. When coupled with increased misting, this temperature varient is known to be a helpful factor in triggering the breeding response.

LIEN : http://www.emeraldtreeboa.org/daemons/etbcare.htm

Pour la traduction ! http://www.google.fr/language_tools?hl=fr



Un care sheet ? :shock:

C'est quoi ca ?

Auteur:  Aînara [ Ven Sep 07, 2007 1:38 am ]
Sujet du message:  Re: Renseignements pour corallus caninus

Sword a écrit:
Aînara a écrit:
Toulouse, mais en clair c'est une ville...pourrie :?


La guèpe ? lol Toulouse est pas une ville pourri ! j'y habite aussi !
Agar, Pablo m'a dit que la photo de la dentition d'un ETB t'apartenait, pourrait tu la reposté, pour la montré a notre amie Aînara.
La dernière fois que je suis allé dans l'album reptilic dans ton profil il n'y vait plus cette photo en question ...

A propos de cette photo, pourquoi il a du sang ?



T'es toulousain toi aussi ? :shock:


T'inquiètes pas pour la dentition, je sais maintenant a quoi ca ressemble :wink:

Il y a quand même quelques mois qui se sont écoulés depuis ma dernière visite, et depuis j'en ai appris beaucoup beaucoup sur le caninus :wink:

Auteur:  Pogona [ Ven Sep 07, 2007 6:44 am ]
Sujet du message: 

Citation:
Un care sheet ?

C'est quoi ca ?

Une fiche de soin ou fiche d'élevage :wink: .

Est-ce que tu serais ''la guêpe'' sur un autre forum ?

Auteur:  Aînara [ Ven Sep 07, 2007 12:31 pm ]
Sujet du message: 

Pogona a écrit:
Citation:
Un care sheet ?

C'est quoi ca ?

Une fiche de soin ou fiche d'élevage :wink: .

Est-ce que tu serais ''la guêpe'' sur un autre forum ?



Ah ok tu me rassures, je pensais que c'était une expression genre bull shit :lol:

Auteur:  denis35 [ Ven Sep 07, 2007 5:26 pm ]
Sujet du message: 

salut!
alors pour detenir un boa canin en france, il faut que tu passes le cdc ces serpents etaient intedits a la vente et a l'exportation jusqu'a il y a quelques mois, et etant faune française, etaient soumis pour les detenteurs a autorisation prefectorale........ce qui fait que peu de boa canin sont maintenus en france a ce jour legalement, et que pour trouver du nc, c'est mission impossible!!!!
a ce jour, l'importation est legale mais pas sa detention!!!! seuls les zoos ou reptilarium, peuvent en faire importer..... mais le simple particulier, non!!!!
donc, mon conseil, soit tu passes le cdc et dans ce cas, tu peux prouver que tu maintiens cette espece depuis minimum trois ans......soit en tant que soigneur dans un reptilarium ou zoo......soit tu ne reste pas dans la legalité et dans ce cas tu te rapproche d'eleveurs allemand, pour en avoir un!!!

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